Panettone
Baking a panettone is like baking a souffle. It rises gloriously in the
oven and then deflates as it cools. Our Il Fornaio bakers were at a loss as
what to do with the fallen loaves, so I introduced them to the foolproof
Italian remedy: Italian bakers suspend boards pierced by a row of round
holes from the ceiling. As they take the breads from the hot oven, they
drop them upside down through the holes. The loaves’ slightly broader bases
prevent them from slipping all the way through and the breads retain their
full height as they cool. Making this handsome, Christmas bread – with the
dough’s four long resting periods – is an all day event. Ideally the loaves
are baked in high-sided panettone molds, but they are difficult to find on
this side of the Atlantic. If you are not planning a trip to Italy before
Christmas, use a two pound coffee can or a two quart charlotte mold or a
souffle dish. This loaf tastes best the day after it is baked, so plan
ahead. For the starter: 2 tsp active dry yeast 1/2 cup warm water (105
degrees F) 1/2 cup unbleached all purpose flour For the first dough: 2 Tbs
unsalted butter at room temperature 4 tsp sugar 1 egg The starter 2/3 cup
unbleached all purpose flour For the second dough: 4 tbs unsalted butter at
room temperature 1/4 cup sugar 1 whole egg 2 egg yolks 1 tsp vanilla
extract 2 tsp honey Pinch of salt Grated zest of 1 orange Grated zest of 1
lemon 2 Tbs chopped candied orange rind 2 Tbs chopped candied lemon rind
1/2 cup raisins, soaked in hot water to cover for 30 mins & drained 1 to 1
1/2 cups unbleached all purpose flour Additional Flour for work surface and
mold Olive oil for bowl Additional Unsalted butter for mold
To make the starter, in a small bowl stir the yeast into the water. Add the
flour and mix vigorously with a wooden spoon for 5 minutes to form a smooth
batter. Top with an airtight cover and let rest at room temperature until
doubled, 30 mins to 1 hour. Once the starter is ready, begin to make the
first dough. In a mixing bowl combine the butter and sugar and beat
together with a sturdy wooden spoon until light, about 2 minutes. Add the
egg and beat until incorporated. Stir in the risen starter, which will
deflate immediately, and beat until smooth. Gradually stir in the flour and
mix vigorously for 3 to 4 minutes. At this point the dough should be
somewhat stiff and stick, but none-the-less smooth and elastic. Once again
top with an airtight cover and let rise until doubled 3 to 5 hours.
Transfer the now-risen first dough to a large mixing bowl. It will deflate
as you do. Now begin to make the second dough. In a smaller bowl combine
the butter and sugar. Using a hand held mixer set on a medium speed, beat
the mixture until light, about 2 minutes. Add the whole egg and egg yolks
and beat until thoroughly combined. Add the vanilla, honey, salt and citrus
zest and beat only until evenly mixed. Using a wooden spoon, beat the egg
mixture into the first dough and continue to beat until smooth. Add the
candied citrus rinds and raisins and beat to distribute evenly, about 1
minute. Stir in 1 cup of the flour. Turn the dough out onto a lightly
floured work surface. Knead the dough, gradually adding more flour as
necessary to achieve a soft, very smooth elastic dough. This should take 5
to 7 minutes. Shape the dough into a ball. Rub a large bowl with olive oil
and place the dough in the bowl. Turn the ball so that the surface is
coated with oil. Top the bowl with an airtight cover and let the dough rise
at room temperature until tripled, 3 to 5 hours. Grease the bread mold (see
recipe introduction) with butter and dust with flour. Cut out a round of
parchment paper to fit the mold bottom precisely and slip it into place.
Punch down the dough by loosely folding the edges into the center and
turning it over so the top is once again smooth. Do not press all of the
air out as you shape it into a loose ball. Place the ball in the prepared
mold. Using a sharp serrated knife, cut a 1/2 inch deep X in the top of the
loaf, extending it to the edges. Cover the mold with a damp towel (the
towel must be damp because the dough is very sticky) and let the load rise
at room temperature until doubled, 2 1/2 to 4 hours. Preheat an oven to 400
degrees F. Cut a second X in the top of the load, retracing the lines of
the first X. Bake the loaf in the preheated oven for 10 minutes. Reduce the
oven temperature to 350 degrees F and bake until a cake tester or a thin
bamboo skewer inserted in the center comes out dry, about 40 minutes
longer. Remove to a wire rack to cool in the mold for 30 minutes. Then
gently glide the load out of the mold and cool it on its side , giving a
quarter turn every 10 to 15 minutes, until cooled completely. To store,
wrap tightly and keep at room temperature for up to 3 days.
Yields
1 Servings